Luxury watch servicing: the care that makes a difference

Over the years, many watches continue to function regularly without ever undergoing a full service. From a technical perspective, however, the fact that a movement is still running does not necessarily mean it is operating under the optimal conditions defined by the Maison.

In order for a mechanical watch to remain reliable over time, the movement that powers it must be periodically cleaned and carefully restored, so as to return it to its original condition. This is precisely the purpose of a complete service: to bring the timepiece back to the functional standards for which it was designed.

The Astrua Watchmaking Laboratory operates as an Official Technical Service Center for the most prestigious international watchmaking Maisons. Within this framework, servicing is not considered a simple technical intervention, but a comprehensive procedure involving inspection, cleaning, and adjustment, aimed at preserving the timepiece’s reliability, longevity, and value over time.

Automatic and mechanical watches are complex systems made of hundreds of components constantly interacting with one another. During operation, wheels, pinions and regulating parts work with extremely tight tolerances and require perfectly calibrated lubrication.

Over the years, the lubricants inside the movement gradually deteriorate or lose their original properties. This process can increase friction between mechanical components, affecting the accuracy and proper functioning of the watch and, in certain models, even reducing the effectiveness of water resistance.

For this reason, most watch manufacturers recommend a complete service every 4 to 6 years, even when the watch appears to be functioning correctly.

For older, vintage or particularly delicate timepieces, more frequent servicing — approximately every 2 to 3 years — is advisable. Conversely, for modern watches built with advanced materials and technologies, service intervals may sometimes extend to 7 or even 8 years.

In general, regular maintenance allows potential issues to be addressed before the natural deterioration of lubricants and components leads to more complex and costly repairs.

When a watch goes without maintenance for a long period of time, the deterioration process occurs gradually and often without obvious warning signs.

The lubricants within the movement are designed to reduce friction between mechanical components. Over time, they may dry out, oxidise or lose viscosity, reducing their effectiveness.

Under these conditions, certain components may begin to operate without adequate protection, causing microscopic wear on contact surfaces. Over the long term, this phenomenon can affect several aspects of the watch’s performance, including: movement accuracy, power reserve, stability of the rate, balance of the regulating organ.

Continuing to wear a watch in these conditions does not necessarily mean it will stop functioning immediately. However, it can increase the likelihood of more significant technical interventions in the future.

Regular professional maintenance helps preserve the integrity of the movement’s components and ensures that the watch continues to operate within the parameters intended by the manufacturer.

A complete service of a luxury watch at the Astrua Official Technical Service Watchmaking Laboratory is a structured process involving several technical stages.

The procedure begins with a thorough diagnosis of the timepiece and the preparation of a service estimate for the client. At this stage, the general condition of the watch, its movement, case and main functions are carefully evaluated.

The movement is then completely disassembled and each individual component undergoes professional cleaning using specialised equipment designed to remove old lubricants and accumulated impurities.

Once cleaned, the components are individually inspected and, when necessary, replaced exclusively with original spare parts supplied by the watch manufacturers, ensuring that the value and authenticity of the timepiece are preserved. Only authorised retailers and service centres such as Astrua have access to these genuine components.

The movement is then reassembled and lubricated with specialised technical oils applied precisely at the points specified by the manufacturer.

The final stages include: regulation of the movement’s accuracy, verification of the power reserve, functional testing of the watch, quality control procedures, water-resistance testing, when applicable.

This process restores the movement to optimal operating conditions and helps preserve its longevity and reliability.

When it comes to the maintenance and repair of high-end watches, it is essential to rely on a qualified laboratory operating according to the technical standards established by the manufacturers.

The Astrua Watchmaking Laboratory operates as an Official Technical Service Centre for the most prestigious watch brands, performing servicing, maintenance, cleaning and repairs using exclusively original spare parts and certified procedures.

Every intervention is preceded by a detailed technical diagnosis and a transparent estimate, allowing clients to fully understand the operations required to restore the watch properly.

Complete services carried out by the laboratory are backed by a three-year service guarantee, confirming the quality standards applied during the entire process.

A high-end mechanical watch is not merely a tool for measuring time, but a piece of engineering and craftsmanship designed to accompany its owner for many years, often for generations.

For this reason, regular maintenance represents an essential part of a timepiece’s life. Entrusting your watch to the Astrua Watchmaking Laboratory, specialised in the servicing of luxury watches and a reference point in fine watchmaking since 1860 in Turin, Alessandria, Piacenza and Genoa, ensures that the movement remains in the optimal technical conditions intended by the manufacturer and that its reliability is preserved over time.